From Modesty to “Soulèvement”: The Irony of the "Kaba" (ngondo)

Ngembeni Wa Namaso

For a dress originally conceived to enforce modesty, the Kaba has taken an ironic turn. Once a symbol of decency and respectability, it now—through the excesses of March 8—has become notorious for soulèvement (lifting), leading to the very exposure it was designed to prevent.

Origins: A Colonial Mission of Modesty

The Kaba was introduced in the early 19th century by British Baptist missionaries in the coastal regions of Cameroon, particularly among the Duala people. Led by figures like Alfred Saker, these missionaries viewed the traditional attire of indigenous women—often consisting of raffia skirts or wrapped fabrics that left parts of the upper body exposed—as "indecent" by European Christian standards.

Determined to instill what they saw as proper moral values, the missionaries encouraged local women to adopt a loose-fitting, full-length dress modeled after European styles. Oral history suggests that the term cover (as in covering the body) was frequently used by the missionaries, and through adaptation into the Duala language, "cover!" evolved into "koba!" and finally "kaba".

Thus, the Kaba was not merely a fashion item; it was a colonial tool of moral enforcement, designed explicitly to conceal what was deemed inappropriate.

The Evolution: From Conservatism to Cultural Expression

Initially, the Kaba was plain, modest, and practical—made of simple cotton to suit the humid climate. Over time, however, local tailors and designers infused it with African creativity, turning it into a stylish and vibrant garment. By the mid-20th century, the Kaba had been reimagined in bold wax prints and elegant bazin fabrics, transforming from a colonial imposition into a statement of cultural pride.

Different versions emerged, such as the Kaba Ngondo (popular at the Sawa people's annual Ngondo festival) and the Kaba grand-mère (an oversized version often worn by older women). Today, modern variations include fitted styles and innovative cuts that reflect both tradition and contemporary fashion trends.

The Irony: From Decency to Indecency?

Despite its origins in modesty, the Kaba has now, ironically, become associated with soulèvement—particularly during International Women’s Day celebrations on March 8. Instead of symbolizing respectability, it has become an emblem of excess, with some revelers lifting their Kaba dresses to reveal intimate parts in the heat of festivities. What was once imposed to cover is now, in many cases, uncovered in the name of celebration.

The contrast is striking: a garment once forced upon women to enforce morality is now at the center of debates about decorum and decency. What started as a colonial effort to suppress indigenous expression has now been fully appropriated—not just in design but in spirit—evolving into something neither missionaries nor even early adopters could have foreseen.

A Reflection on Cultural Transformation

The story of the Kaba is ultimately one of cultural adaptation. It represents how communities take imposed norms, reshape them, and make them their own. While its recent association with “soulèvement” may raise eyebrows, it also highlights how no tradition remains static. Whether for modesty, fashion, or festivity, the Kaba remains a powerful symbol—just not always in the way history originally intended.

Ngembeni Wa Namaso is an Environmental Management Specialist and commentator on Society and Politics. He holds a PhD in Forest Policy and Economics He is based in Yaoundé, Cameroon